Archive for November, 2007

November 29, 2007 | Bathroom, Cleaning tips

This one goes out to Sarah, 7 weeks pregnant! Thanks for the question Sarah, and congratulations on your pregnancy.

So, how to clean the mineral deposits and soap scum left behind by hard water? Thankfully I don’t have hard water, but I don’t envy you who do! The best thing I’ve found to cut the mineral and soap scum deposits from hard water is a combination of lemon juice, vinegar and salt (make sure you don’t have any cuts on your hand - ouch!). I mix the vinegar and lemon juice about half and half - with no water dilution. Then I sprinkle some salt on the scouring side of the sponge and attack the shower door. It’s going to take some scrubbing. I wish I could point you to something you could spray on and then just wipe off later, but even bleach won’t do that with hard water buildup. Simple Green may help - in fact, you could probably spray the Simple Green and leave it, and then come back an hour later and do the vinegar/lemon juice/ salt treatment.

I’ve seen Rain-X recommended to keep the scum from forming on the shower door, and I loved the idea until I read more about Rain-X. It’s an acute and chronic toxin, with known links to organ damage. The manufacturer’s Material Safety Data Sheet says so - straightforward. So I don’t recommend that. I’ve also seen people recommend putting Old English on the door to keep the deposits from building up. Anyone who suggests that has never tried to clean the gunk off. It helps for about a week, but then it somehow attracts the mineral deposits and makes it nearly impossible to clean.

So, your best bet is a window squeegee that you use on the shower door after ever shower. That’ll help slow down the formation of deposits on the shower door, and that means less cleaning for you. The best bet? Try to clean it frequently (I know, I know…) so that the buildup isn’t so overwhelming. If you can’t do it frequently, then pick one week out of a month and break it up bit by bit all that week.

Now, Sarah was wondering if filling up an empty container from her Scrubbing Bubbles automatic shower cleaner with vinegar and lemon juice would help inhibit the deposits (she’s smart enough to stop using the chemicals they sell for it!). I think that’s an awesome idea, and I hope you’ll share the results with us after you try it, Sarah! Kudos for ingenuity!

November 28, 2007 | Bleach alternatives, Cleaning products

This week we received a question about when to use bleach. The thing is, for most purposes, I’d say never. And here’s why:

• Mold and mildew: On porous surfaces (grout, drywall, wood, etc.) mold grows deep into the surface. The way bleach is ionized prevents it from getting into the pores. Bleach is not an effective agent against mold and mildew. People believe it is because it kills some of the surface mold and bleaches the rest of it white - so that you don’t see it. But it won’t kill it all or inhibit the growth.
  • Alternatives: tea tree oil, cinnamon, chamomile, borax
• Bacteria and viruses: Bleach is thought by most to disinfect and sterilize virtually all bacteria and viruses. The fact is, it isn’t completely effective with organic material, nor does it kill E. Coli or other food borne microbes.
  • Alternatives: vinegar, baking soda, borax, lemon juice, tea tree oil, oregano oil

The dangers of bleach far outweigh the uses. The active ingredient in bleach is sodium hypochlorite, and it releases chlorine gases when acidified. It is corrosive and toxic by all routes of exposure (inhalation, touch, ingestion).  It can cause respiratory difficulties, vomiting, loss of consciousness, headache, and skin burns. Anyone who already has respiratory difficulties (asthma, chronic bronchitis, etc.) should not be exposed to it.

When is it useful? When something really needs to be whitened. Say, if you’re selling your home and everything needs to gleam. Of course, you’ll want to use good ventilation and dilute the bleach well. You also might want to consider using a bleach pen, hoping it won’t emit as much fumes.

November 27, 2007 | Kitchen, Vinegar, Cleaning tips, Cleaning products

How to clean them? The word on the street is that Pledge does an awesome job. And in fact, I’ve used it. It’s true. Shiny, easy to use, no need to rinse. What’s not to love? Well, for starters the petroleum. Mmmm… Just want I want covering the surface of my fridge. And then there’s butane and methane too. More lovely additives to my kitchen. Neurotoxins. Respiratory disruptors. Ok. So maybe that’s not what I want in my kitchen.

The good news? Vinegar does the job just as well, and again - no need to rinse. Make sure if it’s satin finished stainless you clean with the grain of the finish, to preserve the life of the finish. If you’re one of the ones who can’t stand the vinegar smell - even for the 3 minutes it takes to dissipate - add a few drops of a potent essential oil. Tea tree oil will do the trick nicely, and give you the added benefit of inhibiting the growth of mold, bacteria, and viruses.

November 26, 2007 | Water, Being Green, Lifestyle

Bring Your Own Bottle. Or, more precisely, mug. When you’ll be stopping off at Starbucks or whatever your favorite coffee shop is, have your own to-go travel mug handy. Think about the waste we’d save if stopped using disposable coffee cups and water bottles. The way our population drinks bottled water and lattes in to-go cardboard cups, the numbers are staggering.

If readers of a single magazine (Organic Style did the study) brought their own cups for one week, enough trees would be saved to fill 2 football fields. If they switched for only a day, they’d save enough energy as 1,000 gallons of gasoline. There’s a website that estimates how much waste we generate with our disposable coffee cups. You’d be surprised. Right now, it’s at approximately 2,684 pounds per hour - including only the people who have registered their coffee cup on the website.

The moral of the story? Bringing your own mug gives you a cuter, more ergonomic, highly personalized container. It turns your coffee into a wardrobe accessory! (Well, maybe that’s pushing it a bit.) And it’s good for the environment. What’s to lose?

November 25, 2007 | Kitchen, Cleaning tips

If you’re like me, you have a little problem with polishing your fine silver with harsh chemicals that burn your nose. Something doesn’t seem right about slathering on something I have to wear gloves to handle, and then eating with it.

But there is a better way! I can’t take credit for this one. It comes from Clean & Green by Berthold-Bond - a great book if you’re looking to clean your home with non-toxics and general household products.

Cleaning your silver has never been easier.  Fill a pan or pot with enough water to cover the silver you’re polishing. Put the silver in with a tablespoon each of salt and baking soda. Then - here’s the kicker - submerse a couple sheets of aluminum foil, and wait an hour. That’s right - go do your nails, take a hot bath, or if you’re the industrious type go churn some home made butter. While you wait, the tarnish will magically be pulled off the silver and land itself securely on the aluminum foil. At that point, rinse your silver with hot water and polish dry with a cloth.

If what you’re polishing isn’t submersible, make a paste of baking soda and water. Use a damp sponge and polish away. Rinse with hot water and dry with a gentle cloth. Cheap white toothpaste will take off any stubborn spots - but don’t use the kind that turns into a gel or has fancy additives (stripes, mint crystals, etc.).

November 20, 2007 | Food & drink, News

The New Oxford American dictionary has recently announced its new list of words, as well as it’s word of the year for 2007. Drum roll? The new word of the year is locavore, meaning people who eat locally-produced and farmed food. The idea behind it is that locally-produced food supports the economy, is fresher, requires less carbon emission in transport, and often the small, locally-owned farms use fewer pesticides and growth hormones. Healthier food all-around.

And now, those who have seen the light, locavores, have been given official status by the New Oxford American Dictionary. One small victory for the green side.

November 17, 2007 | Reviews, Bathroom, Cleaning products

The Green Guide, published by National Geographic, has a guide to bathroom cleaners in their weekly edition. It’s highly worthwhile reading, rating a variety of greener cleaners and also giving information about worst offenders in terms of ingredients.

So if you’re in the market, or just wanting a good starting place for more information, go check it out.

November 15, 2007 | Company news, Cleaning tips

There are 2 ways to go about it. You can hire an established company or an independent cleaner. An independent cleaner is usually a fair amount less expensive than a company, purely because they don’t have the overhead and extra expenses that a company does. They also don’t usually carry insurance or bonding, and have little to no satisfaction guarantees. So you have to weigh the options. If insurance and guarantees are important to you, than you’ll be better off interviewing a few companies. If not, then save your moola and ask around for recommendations for an independent cleaner. If you get the word out to your friends that you’re in the market, you’re sure to get at least a few recommendations.

Now, questions to ask. How to interview. First - I highly suggest that you interview or get estimates from at least 3 companies or individuals, just like you would if you were hiring a home improvement contractor. When you speak with them, you’ll want to know the following:

1. What exactly is included? Compare the list between companies, and not just on a ‘numbered’ basis. Some will boast of their “50+ cleaning list” but their list may be redundant (bathroom sinks cleaned, bathroom sinks disinfected, kitchen sinks cleaned, etc.) while others will make their list more succinct, but perhaps also more thorough.
2. What products do they use? Will they use yours if requested? And if so, will they prorate their charge to account for their savings when using products you supply? We think knowing about what products they use is pretty important, and they’re not products you’re familiar with, you can ask to see the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) - this will tell you the hazards inherent in their products.
3. Are they licensed, bonded, and insured? A yes answer isn’t enough. Ask for verification. Any company who is legit will be able to prove it to you.
4. Who will be doing the cleaning? And will it be the same person(s) every time?
5. How do they handle pets?
6. What are their cancellation policies?
7. If you’ll be leaving a key with them, what are their safety procedures to keep your key and information safe? Your key should never be identified with your name, address, or phone number.
8. How will they clean specific parts of your home? (Hardwoods, granite or marble countertops, stainless steel appliances, artwork, etc.) You want to make sure they won’t use a harmful vacuum on your hardwoods, that they won’t be spraying down your oil on canvas with an all-purpose cleaner, etc.
9. What type of vacuum do they use? This is important. A lot of ‘commercial’ grade vacuums have weak filtration systems, and often send dust particles back into your air - creating poor air quality as they clean your home. Ensuring that they use a HEPA filter is important, but there are plenty of HEPA-filtered vacs that still kick particles up into the air. It’s also wise to ask how often their vacuum is tuned up and how frequently they change the vacuum bags.
10. Ensure that they have a confidentiality policy. While cleaning your home, they may stumble across things - be it bills or sensitive information, or just a general sense of how you keep your home - that you don’t want gossiped about to your friends and neighbors.
11. How do they handle special requests? Sure, their cleaning checklist may cover all your typical needs, but what about when your apple pie spills over in your oven? Or your popcorn explodes in the microwave? Or you’re rushing to get the guest room ready and you need help washing the linens?
12. What happens if something gets broken? If they’re insured it shouldn’t be a problem, but better to be safe than sorry.

Oh, and by the way… if you need someone in North east Altanta, Broom Huggers is the best green, healthy housekeeping service in town! (yet another shameless plug)
Have any questions you think should be added to our list?

November 14, 2007 | Essential oils, Cleaning products

It’s a natural fungicide! Do you know what that means? It kills mold and mildew!!! (Excuse the excitement.) Do you know what that means? You can grind some cinnamon into any natural cleaning product you have and benefit from it in 2 ways - an amazing scent, *and* a mildew free shower curtain (or anything else)!

Can you imagine the scent? Lemon juice, water, cinnamon, and lemongrass essential oil… mmm… It’d be anti-fungal, anti-viral, antiseptic, and totally yummy!  I’ll be back - I have to find something to clean.

November 13, 2007 | Cleaning products

Signal words are the mandated warning labels on cleaning products and other items in your home. They range in severity with Danger: Poison being the most threatening to Caution carrying a warning of the least amount of hazard. Here’s the breakd0wn:

• Danger: Poison - if the skull and cross bones are present, you know you’re dealing with something hazardous. A drop or two could kill you, and using these products incorrectly (inhaling, putting them on the skin, etc.) could also cause serious damage.
• Danger - Slightly less hazard, but let’s emphasize slightly. If the label says Danger but not poison, then you’re dealing with something that could kill an adult with a few small drops, but whatever chemical is present hasn’t been saddled with the Poison designation.
• Warning - a teaspoon of it could kill an adult.
• Caution - this is much less toxic, but 2 tablespoons to a cup could still kill you.

Some other words you’ll find on labels are Flammable, Toxic, Carcinogen, Corrosive. They’re pretty much self-explanatory, and certainly not to be ignored. Read the labels of the items you keep in your house. It’s not really necessary to have any of the danger or poison items around for any period of time. Or if you do have to keep them, put them up high in the garage where little hands and rambunctious pet paws can’t accidentally get into them.